Best Table Saw Blade for Ripping Hardwood
Rough hardwood rips require a strong saw blade with an aggressive cut, which is why we chose Freud’s 10” 24 tooth saw blade. This blade features a fairly aggressive twenty degree hook angle to truly dig into the wood without tearing it out. Moreover, the depth of the teeth allow for rip cuts on material thicknesses of up to 2 ¾”.
Using a laser cut design with anti-vibration slots, you will not have to worry about the blade cutting true. The teeth are made from high-density carbide tipped with a patented titanium alloy to provide additional strength and endurance.
When tested, the Freud maintained its structural integrity and sharpness longer than comparable DeWalt, Bosch, and Irwin blades--nearly twenty five percent more cuts than the next closest competitor. Moreover, the Freud managed to remain usable even after teeth had broken off.
Once again we cannot help but recommend a Freud. Quite simply the excellence of this brand’s manufacturing demonstrates itself in terms of durability and versatility. Keep in mind though, that for both this and the prior model, Freud blades do not always provide the smoothest feeling cut and will require a bit of technique in terms of feed. Still, nobody buys a saw blade for the first dozen cuts, and a continued quality counts far more than the “feel” of cut assuming the quality remains more or less equal.
For clean rips, we recommend Freud’s glue-line saw blade. While the hook angle is a bit more shallow at only twelve degrees and the tooth depth is similarly a bit shorter, the smooth cuts left by the triple-chip teeth on this blade leave cuts that can be joined without having to sand afterwards.
Moreover, the 10” 30 tooth blade is more than capable of handling mildly abrasive materials like plywood without dulling thanks to the high density carbide tipped with the patented TiCo titanium alloy seen on the previous blade. Furthermore, the same laser cut manufacturing combined with a full kerf offers additional stability to ensure the cut stays true.
Rough Cuts vs Clean Cuts
While the marvels of master woodworking may result in a piece of priceless art, they must all begin the same way: with rough materials. As a sculptor chisels away at a block of stone to release the figure from within, so too must a woodworker cut and sand and polish lumber until the individual pieces can be refashioned into an artifice of human achievement.
However, the initial stage for this process often starts with the roughest of cuts. In this instance, we often must first make a quality rip cut, so that the foundation of our project provides adequate footing from which the rest may build without a fatal flaw embedded within.
Of course, different types of projects will require different starting positions and ultimately different initial cuts. That is why we have taken the time to break down what makes the best table saw blade for ripping hardwood in both larger and more refined projects.
While there are a number of qualities about a saw blade that will differ depending on the type of cut you need to make, a handful of them should remain common throughout as they provide consistently better results. Furthermore, within the specific range of rip cuts, there is a quality that needs to be adhered whether the cut is incredibly rough or intended for cleaner use at a secondary stage of production.
Universally, all saw blades should be laser cut. This differs from stamped steel in a couple important ways. First, laser cut blades are able to be constructed from harder materials which increases durability and stability. Moreover, the additional precision of a laser cut form as opposed to a stamped manufacture provides even more stability. This stability will help prevent vibrations from introducing wobble into your cuts.
Second, all blades should be made out of fine grain, hard carbide materials. Using a quality material, the blade’s teeth can be resharpened more easily and more often before you need to replace the blade altogether. Moreover, the harder the material, the longer the teeth hold their edge and produce quality cuts. This has even led to the rise of tungsten tipped teeth.
In terms of qualities for rip cuts that are universal, a thin kerf is often indicated. Since rip cuts are usually longer, taking more time, than cross or plunge cuts, they can put additional strain on your table saw’s motor. One way to alleviate this strain is to use a thinner saw blade.
This reduces the amount of material the blade hat to cut through by twenty five percent. However, most manufacturers recommend that you include an additional stabilizer when using a thin kerf blade as most table saw arbors are designed to mount full kerf blades.
Another quality you should look at in all ripping saw blades is the hook angle and depth of the teeth. These two features will heavily influence how aggressively the saw blade cuts. The deeper the teeth the more aggressive the cut. Similarly, the more positive the hook angle, the more aggressive the cut. Keep in mind, you will want a slightly more shallow and less positive hook for cleaner rip cuts than you will for rough ones.
Of honorable mention in rip blade features is the glue line. This type of saw blade features a triple-chip tooth followed by a flat-ground tooth and makes a much smoother cut. However, glue-line rip blades require a far steadier feed and are not suitable for materials thicker than 1”. However, these blades can also cut through more abrasive materials offering additional versatility.
Best Table Saw Blade for Ripping Hardwood: Conclusion
While Freud may require a bit more patience and practice to use to the best of its ability, this brand consistently produces saw blades that not only make excellent rip cuts but can continue to do so for far longer than their competitors before losing a step. The combination of high quality materials and industry leading laser cut manufacturing make this a hard brand to beat. Freud produces the best table saw blade for ripping hardwood bar none!
Speaking of hardness, Freud’s TiCo carbide is able to be made into .8 micrograin blades with as small as .4 micrograin laminates. Add a perma-shield coating to make cleanup a bit easier, and it becomes clear that this blade brand is made by woodworkers for woodworkers.